In a Polish beer market dominated by massive conglomerates producing endless oceans of pale Euro-lager, Browar Fortuna stands as a defiant guardian of flavor. Located in Miłosław (Greater Poland), this brewery is a testament to the idea that “traditional” does not have to mean “old-fashioned.”

Founded in 1889, the brewery survived wars, communism, and the post-1989 capitalist flood of western beer. It did this not by copying the giants, but by brewing beer that requires a little more patience—and significantly more burnt sugar.

The Dark Legend: Fortuna Czarne

The brewery’s reputation is almost entirely built on the back of one legendary bottle: Fortuna Czarne (Fortuna Black).

This is not a stout, and it is not a porter. It is a specific Polish style known as Dark Sweet Beer. It is brewed using roasted malts and, crucially, cola nut extract. It tastes like a heavily malted beer had a child with a craft cola. It is sweet, dark, low in alcohol, and incredibly nostalgic for many Poles. It is a “dessert beer” that refuses to apologize for being sweet, existing in a category of its own.

The Open Fermentation Resurrection

Technologically, Browar Fortuna is one of the few commercial breweries in Europe that still utilizes open fermentation vats.

Most modern breweries ferment in sealed, stainless steel conical tanks (CCVs) because they are faster, cleaner, and easier to control. Fortuna uses traditional open squares. This allows the yeast to “breathe” and minimizes the hydrostatic pressure on the yeast cells, which (according to the brewers) creates a more complex, fruity, and aromatic ester profile. It is a labor-intensive, risky way to make beer—if anything falls into the vat, the batch is ruined—but it captures a flavor profile that stainless steel simply cannot replicate.

The Dragon of Miłosław

Beyond the sweet black beer, the brewery has successfully pivoted to the “Craft Revolution” with its Miłosław line.

This series bridges the gap between the “old school” beer drinkers and the “hop head” hipsters. They brew classic Pilsners and Weizens, but also experiment with IPAs and Maple Porters. They proved that a 19th-century regional brewery could learn new tricks. The Miłosław Niefiltrowane (Unfiltered) is widely regarded as one of the best shelf-stable lagers in Poland, offering a cloudy, yeasty bite that tastes like it came straight from the tank.

The Fruit Beer Fortress

Culturally, Fortuna also carved out a niche as the “King of Fruit Beer.” While many breweries treat fruit beer as a gimmick, Fortuna takes it seriously.

Their Fortuna Wiśniowa (Cherry) and Fortuna Mirabelka (Mirabelle Plum) are brewed with natural fruit juices, not just chemical flavorings. In a country with a deep love for fruit cordials and compotes, these beers resonate. They are the gateway drugs of the Polish beer world—the beers you give to someone who claims they “don’t like beer,” only to watch them finish the bottle and ask for another.